Suits, Suits, Suits

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Jim Cox and Robert Elms discussing skinhead style. Notice the suit folks, not cheap and metallic "tonic" style fabric but a proper mohair.

Proper Suit Sleeve Length, Take Notes

The lads over at Primer Magazine have done any sartorial novice a great service by having a great example of exactly where ones suit sleeve should end and shirt cuff begin. Too often the suit sleeve ends exactly where the shirt’s cuff does as well, making it look as if you don’t know how to dress yourself. This should save you any embarrassment. Between a 1/4” and a 1/2” should be showing for the record. While we’re on the topic, only a long sleeve shirt should be worn with a suit precisely so you can achieve this look.

Prince of Wales Knowledge

Prince of Wales check, or Glen Urquhart plaid as only a real clothing nerd might know it by, is probably one of our favorites for a suit after the obvious choice of tonic and they also make a great pair of sta-prest if you’re interested in something other then plain color. Turns out it’s named after a valley in Scotland but became mostly known as Prince of Wales check because of the always well dressed Duke of Windsor during his days as the, believe it or not, Prince of Wales. Now you know.

For The Suits Profile: Jason Hue, Thick as Thieves

Jason Hue is the sort of cat who knows exactly what he likes. The man behind Thick As Thieves has been around the skinhead scene since the mid-eighties but it took until 2007 for him to start up his tailoring service, specializing in all types of retro styled suits. That’s not to say there’s no interest in more modern cuts and fabrics, but Jason’s heart is certainly in the subculture influenced suits of mods, skinheads and suedeheads.

Dormeuil Tonik

Best tonic, or tonik if you prefer, available. Can’t claim to own a suit made with the stuff, that is but a dream at this point. Doesn’t seem to be easy to come by either. Started in 1842 by Jules Dormeuil, the business continuously expanded and in 1956 the company created the fabric it would be famous for. It was the now infamous “Tonik”, a 3 ply mohair blend. The fabric quickly caught on with mods, skinheads and suedeheads and the rest is, as they say, history.